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Staying in a pension: one word, many traditions around the world

Ask travellers in different countries what a pension is and you will get very different answers. In one place it means a modest family guesthouse with a set dinner at seven. In another it means a private holiday house with a barbecue terrace for a group of friends. In a third it means a cosy wooden lodge near the ski slopes, run by a couple who cook Western-style breakfasts. What these places share is scale and character: they are small, personal and usually run by the people who own them.

This guide explains what the word means in different parts of the world, what is normally included, and how to pick the right pension for your trip from the listings on this page.

Where the word comes from

The word goes back to the idea of paying for board and lodging, and that meaning survives in many languages. In German it is Pension, in Italian pensione, in Spanish pensión, in Portuguese pensão. The same root gives us the meal plans you still see on booking pages: half board, known as Halbpension, mezza pensione or media pensión, and full board, where lunch is included as well. Over time the word travelled with tourism, and each region gave it its own shape.

The classic family pension in Europe

In the Alps, around the Mediterranean and in many old towns, a pension is traditionally a small house with a handful of simple rooms, often above or beside the family's own home. The owners do much of the work themselves, from cleaning the rooms to cooking the evening meal. Rooms tend to be plain but clean, with a bed, a wardrobe, a washbasin and sometimes a balcony. What you give up in facilities you gain in atmosphere: a host who knows the best walks, guests chatting across the tables, and seasonal home cooking.

In mountain villages, half board is still common. You get breakfast in the morning and a set dinner in the evening, which suits hikers and skiers who come back tired and hungry. In cities, a pension is more often a room-only or breakfast-only stay in an older building, sometimes on an upper floor of an apartment block, with a small reception or simply a doorbell.

Pensions in South Korea

In South Korea the word has taken on a quite different meaning. A pension there is usually a private holiday lodging in the countryside, in the mountains or by the sea, rented by families, couples and groups of friends for a night or a weekend away from the city. Many are modern buildings with their own kitchen or kitchenette, and a barbecue terrace is almost part of the definition. Guests often bring their own food, grill on the terrace in the evening and enjoy views of a valley, a river or the coast. Some rooms follow the Korean custom of sleeping on bedding laid out on a heated floor, while others have Western beds, so it is worth checking which you prefer. Weekends and school holidays are the busiest times, and prices and minimum stays can differ between weekdays and weekends.

Pensions in Japan

In Japan, a pension is a small Western-style guesthouse, usually run by a family, and often found in ski areas, highland resorts, lakeside areas and national parks. They are different from the traditional ryokan: expect beds rather than futons, a lounge with a fireplace or wood stove, and meals that lean towards European home cooking, sometimes with local ingredients. Many offer dinner and breakfast as part of the stay. They are popular with skiers in winter and with families and walkers in the green season, and they can be a friendly, good-value alternative to larger resort hotels.

Pensiones and hospedajes in Latin America

Across much of Latin America, a pensión, hospedaje or residencial is a simple, affordable place to stay, often in a family home or a small building near the centre of town. Some have a courtyard with plants, a shared kitchen or a rooftop terrace. Breakfast may or may not be included, and facilities vary from very basic to comfortable. These places are a natural choice for backpackers, long-term travellers and anyone who wants to stay close to local daily life rather than in a hotel district.

What is usually included

• Breakfast. Often included, ranging from bread, jam and coffee to a generous home-made spread. Ask what is served and at what time.
• Half board. Common in mountain and rural pensions. Dinner is usually a set menu at a fixed hour, so tell your hosts early about allergies or diets.
• Bathrooms. Many rooms now have a private bathroom, but in older or cheaper pensions a shared bathroom down the corridor is still normal. Check the room description carefully.
• Cleaning. Rooms may be cleaned daily, every few days, or only on request during longer stays.
• Self-catering. Especially in Korea and in some Latin American pensions, a kitchen or barbecue area is part of the deal instead of served meals.

House rules and living with the family

Because a pension is often also someone's home, there may be house rules you would not find in a hotel. Some close the front door at night or have a curfew, some ask for quiet after a certain hour, and some expect you to remove your shoes indoors. Check-in times can be strict when there is no staffed reception, so let the hosts know if you will arrive late. None of this is meant to be unfriendly. A short conversation with the family on arrival usually clears everything up, and often leads to the best local tips of your trip.

Money matters

A pension is usually one of the more budget-friendly ways to travel, especially for longer stays or in expensive regions. Payment methods vary. Some smaller places prefer cash or a bank transfer, others accept cards, and some ask for a deposit to hold your room. Ask in advance about the cancellation policy, any local tourist tax, and whether meals are paid on the spot or added to the bill.

When to go

Seasons shape the pension experience. Mountain pensions are busiest in the ski season and in the summer walking months, and some close in between. Remember that seasons are reversed in the Southern Hemisphere, so the ski season in the Andes falls in the middle of the northern summer. In tropical regions, rainy or monsoon months can mean lower prices but also closed roads and fewer services. Ask whether the pension has heating for cold months or air conditioning or fans for hot ones.

Questions to ask before you book

• Does the room have a private bathroom, or is it shared?
• Is breakfast included, and is half board or dinner available?
• Is there a kitchen or barbecue area for guests?
• What are the check-in times, and is there a curfew or door closing time?
• Which payment methods do you accept, and is a deposit required?
• Are the beds Western-style, or is bedding laid on the floor?
• How is the room heated or cooled in the season we are coming?
• Is there parking, and how do we get there by public transport?
• Are children and pets welcome?

Tips for a good stay

Learn a few words of the local language; hosts at small family places usually appreciate it. Be on time for set meals, and travel light, since older buildings rarely have lifts. And do not rush off after breakfast on your first morning: ask your hosts for their favourite walk, market or restaurant.

Finding a pension on this page

The pensions listed on this page are grouped by continent, country and region, so you can quickly narrow your search to where you want to go. Every link takes you to the owner's own website, where you can look at the rooms, check availability and book directly with the family. Do you run a pension yourself? Add your link for free with the button above and let travellers from around the world find you.